New Fork City: A Discussion of How Immigration is Translated Through New York City Street Food
Hot dogs, pizza, pretzels. The Statue of Liberty. All of which are well known for being a part of the city that never sleeps: New York, New York.
Street food and immigration are not as unrelated as they may seem, for the origin of ethnic street foods begins with immigrants from countries far and wide. New York itself is the hub of immigration and offers new beginnings for immigrants who seek the American Dream. In 1886, France gave the U.S. a 152 foot tall statue, known as the Statue of Liberty. This statue now welcomes people from all over the world to New York and is one of the many famous landmarks of the state. New York is known as a “melting pot,” which means that New York is home to many different ethnicities; in fact, about 40% of New York’s population was not born in the United States. There are over 200 languages spoken in New York. (McGuinness)
The bright-light-filled metropolis continues to intrigue dreamers from across the planet to begin their new life in New York, constantly adding more and more into the “melting pot.” Street food began around the 15th century in places like Turkey and Greece, which is a fact that marks the start of on-the-go, easy-to-eat foods. When Europe colonized America, the Europeans brought in many new foods, but the locals kept selling their traditional cuisine through street food. Many street foods from back then are still eaten today, such as French Fries and falafel. It used to be that New Yorkers could get any food they could think of from a street vending cart on the closest city block. The reason that New York is no longer like this is that restaurants have become more affordable and food you could buy off of the street became known as treats such as ice cream and candies.
Certain types of street food represent the many different ways of life from around the world, giving new ethnic experiences to both locals and tourists and bringing pieces of home to those who have moved away from their hometowns. Street food is a way to convey many different cultures to people of the city and to shine a light on the traditional foods of different heritages––offering, through food, a taste of life in other countries. In particular, this essay explores the impact of ethnic street food on New York’s diverse culture. Street food acts as a voice for minority cultures to convey their heritage and to preserve their ways of life.
An essential reflection of different cultures and nationalities––a reflection felt in the life of the everyday New-Yorker society––street food is a straight-forward, yet challenging business to get into, which compels many immigrants to get into street vending.
One example of a successful street cart is shown in an article written by Steve Mariotti in which he portrays both the struggles and the benefits of street vending. In his writing, he tells the story of two Russian immigrants, Andrey Babaev and Aryat Muleev, who own a successful food cart called Crepes & Waffles. Babaev moved to New York chasing the “American Dream.” He arrived without knowing a single word of English, and began his career as a cab driver. Many other Russian immigrants began their New York lives as cab drivers as well, and slowly went into the pushcart business. Babaev and Muleev followed in their footsteps. Every morning at 5:00 a.m, the two men wake up so that they have enough time to prepare food for a long, long line of people. “We’re cooking on the table and people see how we cook. We don’t [pre-make] — they see what we do and they know it is fresh. They see what they’re going to eat. That’s quality” (qtd. in “Street Wars: The Secret Life of Street Food Vendors” by Babaev). This quote displays the number one priority of their business and the reason why people keep coming back for more. (Mariotti)
Another example of immigrants who run a popular food cart is The Halal Guys. The owner/founder of this food truck, Mohamed Abouelenein captures in his article “The Halal Guys”––written in Food and the City: New York's Professional Chefs, Restaurateurs, Line Cooks, Street Vendors, and Purveyors Talk about What They Do and Why They Do It, (2016) an anthology edited by Ina Yalof––his roots in Egypt and how his passion for food got him to where he is today. The Halal Guys is one of the most well-eaten-at food trucks/carts in New York. Abouelenein sells food that stays true to his Egyptian heritage such as Gyro sandwiches, hummus, falafel, baba ghanouj, and baklava. Before he moved to America, Abouelenein’s parents wanted him to become a doctor, so he worked as a veterinarian for six years until he quit to pursue something in the food business. He moved to New York and started off by selling hot dogs. “But the hours were tough. I started at nine a.m. and finished at nine p.m. And then, every night, after twelve hours working, I had to push my cart down the street and into a garage that was blocks and blocks away” (Abouelenein 40). Just starting out, the street food business was loads of work. The garage owner named Abdul needed someone to buy his cart, since he was retiring, so he asked Abouelenein to run it. Abouelenein agreed and that’s when The Halal Guys began.
Behind the scenes of the hard working, happy faces that sell delicious foods to everyone, are, not surprisingly, both minor and major struggles. There are many bumps in the road in the street selling business that make the job much more difficult than it should be. Difficulties with getting permits and with finding a good vending spot contribute to the overall “bad side” of the NYC street food business.
Getting a permit for selling on the street is one of the most tedious processes most vendors go through. The New York health department has very strict requirements which mostly follow the necessity of having both a license and a permit. In the article “The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly State of Street Food in America” (21 May 2015), author Lucas Peterson shows the pros and cons of street food vending in NYC, Los Angeles, and San Antonio. I mainly focused on the NYC part. He states, “In order to peddle anything from a mobile unit — be it hot nuts or fancy gourmet sliders — you need 1) a license and 2) a permit.” In his article, Peterson compares getting a selling license to getting a driver’s license at the DMV: long, tiring, and annoying. In fact, you have to wait for a license spot to open up before you can even apply for permit. Applying for a permit is the first step that vendors do before selling. And, once vendors actually get their permit, they have to fight other vendors for a good selling spot. The spot in which the cart is placed determines how much business the cart will get. “The licensing part — very simple. No trouble at all to obtain a license. Here's the problem, however: You can't get a permit. No one can.” The issue on the table is that it is near impossible for vendors to get their permits. The whole scenario is very complicated. (Peterson)
Street vending can also get problematic when illegal immigrants (who sell) establish a criminal record and can get deported. The reason why these retailers could be criminals is that they continue to sell on the street without a permit. This issue is happening everywhere to street food vendors, but in Los Angeles in particular, they are trying to find a way to stop deportation of sellers. For quite a while, the immigrants and many other citizens of Los Angeles have been trying to pass a law that will result in the decriminalization of street vendors so that many sellers can avoid deportation.
In a recent LA Times article by Hailey Branson Potts, “L.A. City Council votes unanimously to decriminalize street vending” reports on what is being done to help and why this hard process may take very long. Although this has already been an issue, President Trump has recently intensified immigration rules and has made it more difficult for illegal immigrants to stay in the US. Branson Potts states, “Trump recently signed an order that emphasized deporting not only people convicted of crimes but also people who were charged with crimes not yet adjudicated, and even those who have not been charged but are believed to have committed ‘acts that constitute a chargeable criminal offense.’ Already, more than 24 criminal cases of violating the street vending laws have occurred due to selling without a permit, just in L.A. If this issue continues to grow throughout the country, something is going to need to be done. For example, allowing carts and trucks to sell food with just a license rather than a permit as well.
Street food may be a difficult business, but it provides jobs for those who can’t afford a full restaurant, but still want to make food for consumers. It’s difficult for immigrants to get a job, so street vending is a simple fix. Street carts or food trucks are less expensive than restaurants which makes them easier for vendors to sell their food and make money. Street carts are much more efficient than restaurant when it comes to fast food. The carts act as food-on-the-go for the passersbyers or the window shoppers on the street, and offer them a quick snack or even a full meal, depending on the cart.
The importance of street food goes far beyond just a great job for immigrants to have. From all of my research, I’ve noticed that street food isn’t just for the food; it about the culture that it provides to the city. Rich in ethnicity, the foods on the streets provide a taste of other lifestyles and create a bond between different nations and people. In the article “Why Street Vendors are Vital to NYC Food Culture” (2012) Max Falkowitz talks about the cultural significance of street food to NYC. Falkowitz proves that street food is the voice of community. “Street food helps to build and maintain community across economic, ethnic, and regional boundaries. It's a vital part of urban life here.” Street food does more than merely represent a culture; it integrates people of other nations into New York. Rather than street vending being an enhancement to our culture, it’s a profound part of our society.
Imagine taking away the hot dog or the burrito or crepes. New York would be a totally different place. The city would have less “flavor” and each culture that lives in and animates the city would be hidden from everyone else. In my opinion––and not just because I enjoy trying new foods––diverse street food is what completes a city. New York is where many countries come together in just one state, and without a representation of every ethnic background, that reputation could slowly fade away. One of the most appealing aspects of not only New York City, but our entire country is the opportunities for people around the world. Woven in the city are plenty of ways to express one’s culture, from art to sports to clothing to architecture, but when it comes down to the most obvious, simple, and well-shared tradition, culture only points to one thing: street food
The bright-light-filled metropolis continues to intrigue dreamers from across the planet to begin their new life in New York, constantly adding more and more into the “melting pot.” Street food began around the 15th century in places like Turkey and Greece, which is a fact that marks the start of on-the-go, easy-to-eat foods. When Europe colonized America, the Europeans brought in many new foods, but the locals kept selling their traditional cuisine through street food. Many street foods from back then are still eaten today, such as French Fries and falafel. It used to be that New Yorkers could get any food they could think of from a street vending cart on the closest city block. The reason that New York is no longer like this is that restaurants have become more affordable and food you could buy off of the street became known as treats such as ice cream and candies.
Certain types of street food represent the many different ways of life from around the world, giving new ethnic experiences to both locals and tourists and bringing pieces of home to those who have moved away from their hometowns. Street food is a way to convey many different cultures to people of the city and to shine a light on the traditional foods of different heritages––offering, through food, a taste of life in other countries. In particular, this essay explores the impact of ethnic street food on New York’s diverse culture. Street food acts as a voice for minority cultures to convey their heritage and to preserve their ways of life.
An essential reflection of different cultures and nationalities––a reflection felt in the life of the everyday New-Yorker society––street food is a straight-forward, yet challenging business to get into, which compels many immigrants to get into street vending.
One example of a successful street cart is shown in an article written by Steve Mariotti in which he portrays both the struggles and the benefits of street vending. In his writing, he tells the story of two Russian immigrants, Andrey Babaev and Aryat Muleev, who own a successful food cart called Crepes & Waffles. Babaev moved to New York chasing the “American Dream.” He arrived without knowing a single word of English, and began his career as a cab driver. Many other Russian immigrants began their New York lives as cab drivers as well, and slowly went into the pushcart business. Babaev and Muleev followed in their footsteps. Every morning at 5:00 a.m, the two men wake up so that they have enough time to prepare food for a long, long line of people. “We’re cooking on the table and people see how we cook. We don’t [pre-make] — they see what we do and they know it is fresh. They see what they’re going to eat. That’s quality” (qtd. in “Street Wars: The Secret Life of Street Food Vendors” by Babaev). This quote displays the number one priority of their business and the reason why people keep coming back for more. (Mariotti)
Another example of immigrants who run a popular food cart is The Halal Guys. The owner/founder of this food truck, Mohamed Abouelenein captures in his article “The Halal Guys”––written in Food and the City: New York's Professional Chefs, Restaurateurs, Line Cooks, Street Vendors, and Purveyors Talk about What They Do and Why They Do It, (2016) an anthology edited by Ina Yalof––his roots in Egypt and how his passion for food got him to where he is today. The Halal Guys is one of the most well-eaten-at food trucks/carts in New York. Abouelenein sells food that stays true to his Egyptian heritage such as Gyro sandwiches, hummus, falafel, baba ghanouj, and baklava. Before he moved to America, Abouelenein’s parents wanted him to become a doctor, so he worked as a veterinarian for six years until he quit to pursue something in the food business. He moved to New York and started off by selling hot dogs. “But the hours were tough. I started at nine a.m. and finished at nine p.m. And then, every night, after twelve hours working, I had to push my cart down the street and into a garage that was blocks and blocks away” (Abouelenein 40). Just starting out, the street food business was loads of work. The garage owner named Abdul needed someone to buy his cart, since he was retiring, so he asked Abouelenein to run it. Abouelenein agreed and that’s when The Halal Guys began.
Behind the scenes of the hard working, happy faces that sell delicious foods to everyone, are, not surprisingly, both minor and major struggles. There are many bumps in the road in the street selling business that make the job much more difficult than it should be. Difficulties with getting permits and with finding a good vending spot contribute to the overall “bad side” of the NYC street food business.
Getting a permit for selling on the street is one of the most tedious processes most vendors go through. The New York health department has very strict requirements which mostly follow the necessity of having both a license and a permit. In the article “The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly State of Street Food in America” (21 May 2015), author Lucas Peterson shows the pros and cons of street food vending in NYC, Los Angeles, and San Antonio. I mainly focused on the NYC part. He states, “In order to peddle anything from a mobile unit — be it hot nuts or fancy gourmet sliders — you need 1) a license and 2) a permit.” In his article, Peterson compares getting a selling license to getting a driver’s license at the DMV: long, tiring, and annoying. In fact, you have to wait for a license spot to open up before you can even apply for permit. Applying for a permit is the first step that vendors do before selling. And, once vendors actually get their permit, they have to fight other vendors for a good selling spot. The spot in which the cart is placed determines how much business the cart will get. “The licensing part — very simple. No trouble at all to obtain a license. Here's the problem, however: You can't get a permit. No one can.” The issue on the table is that it is near impossible for vendors to get their permits. The whole scenario is very complicated. (Peterson)
Street vending can also get problematic when illegal immigrants (who sell) establish a criminal record and can get deported. The reason why these retailers could be criminals is that they continue to sell on the street without a permit. This issue is happening everywhere to street food vendors, but in Los Angeles in particular, they are trying to find a way to stop deportation of sellers. For quite a while, the immigrants and many other citizens of Los Angeles have been trying to pass a law that will result in the decriminalization of street vendors so that many sellers can avoid deportation.
In a recent LA Times article by Hailey Branson Potts, “L.A. City Council votes unanimously to decriminalize street vending” reports on what is being done to help and why this hard process may take very long. Although this has already been an issue, President Trump has recently intensified immigration rules and has made it more difficult for illegal immigrants to stay in the US. Branson Potts states, “Trump recently signed an order that emphasized deporting not only people convicted of crimes but also people who were charged with crimes not yet adjudicated, and even those who have not been charged but are believed to have committed ‘acts that constitute a chargeable criminal offense.’ Already, more than 24 criminal cases of violating the street vending laws have occurred due to selling without a permit, just in L.A. If this issue continues to grow throughout the country, something is going to need to be done. For example, allowing carts and trucks to sell food with just a license rather than a permit as well.
Street food may be a difficult business, but it provides jobs for those who can’t afford a full restaurant, but still want to make food for consumers. It’s difficult for immigrants to get a job, so street vending is a simple fix. Street carts or food trucks are less expensive than restaurants which makes them easier for vendors to sell their food and make money. Street carts are much more efficient than restaurant when it comes to fast food. The carts act as food-on-the-go for the passersbyers or the window shoppers on the street, and offer them a quick snack or even a full meal, depending on the cart.
The importance of street food goes far beyond just a great job for immigrants to have. From all of my research, I’ve noticed that street food isn’t just for the food; it about the culture that it provides to the city. Rich in ethnicity, the foods on the streets provide a taste of other lifestyles and create a bond between different nations and people. In the article “Why Street Vendors are Vital to NYC Food Culture” (2012) Max Falkowitz talks about the cultural significance of street food to NYC. Falkowitz proves that street food is the voice of community. “Street food helps to build and maintain community across economic, ethnic, and regional boundaries. It's a vital part of urban life here.” Street food does more than merely represent a culture; it integrates people of other nations into New York. Rather than street vending being an enhancement to our culture, it’s a profound part of our society.
Imagine taking away the hot dog or the burrito or crepes. New York would be a totally different place. The city would have less “flavor” and each culture that lives in and animates the city would be hidden from everyone else. In my opinion––and not just because I enjoy trying new foods––diverse street food is what completes a city. New York is where many countries come together in just one state, and without a representation of every ethnic background, that reputation could slowly fade away. One of the most appealing aspects of not only New York City, but our entire country is the opportunities for people around the world. Woven in the city are plenty of ways to express one’s culture, from art to sports to clothing to architecture, but when it comes down to the most obvious, simple, and well-shared tradition, culture only points to one thing: street food
Works Cited
Branson Potts, Hailey. "L.A. City Council Votes Unanimously to Decriminalize Street Vending." Los Angeles Times. Los Angeles Times, 15 Feb. 2017. Web. 24 Feb. 2017.
Country, Great American. "Cultural Diversity in New York City." GAC. Great American Country, 12 May 2015. Web. 1 Mar. 2017.
Falkowitz, Max. "Why Street Vendors Are Vital to NYC Food Culture." Serious Eats. Serious Eats Inc., 26 June 2012. Web. 22 Feb. 2017.
Mariotti, Steve. "Street Wars: The Secret Life of Street Food Vendors." The Huffington Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, 11 Dec. 2013. Web. 21 Feb. 2017.
Peterson, Lucas. "The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly State of Street Food in America." Eater. Eater, 21 May 2015. Web. 28 Feb. 2017.
Yalof, Ina L. Food and the City: New York's Professional Chefs, Restaurateurs, Line Cooks, Street Vendors, and Purveyors Talk about What They Do and Why They Do It. New York: G.P. Putnam's Sons, 2016. Print.
Branson Potts, Hailey. "L.A. City Council Votes Unanimously to Decriminalize Street Vending." Los Angeles Times. Los Angeles Times, 15 Feb. 2017. Web. 24 Feb. 2017.
Country, Great American. "Cultural Diversity in New York City." GAC. Great American Country, 12 May 2015. Web. 1 Mar. 2017.
Falkowitz, Max. "Why Street Vendors Are Vital to NYC Food Culture." Serious Eats. Serious Eats Inc., 26 June 2012. Web. 22 Feb. 2017.
Mariotti, Steve. "Street Wars: The Secret Life of Street Food Vendors." The Huffington Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, 11 Dec. 2013. Web. 21 Feb. 2017.
Peterson, Lucas. "The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly State of Street Food in America." Eater. Eater, 21 May 2015. Web. 28 Feb. 2017.
Yalof, Ina L. Food and the City: New York's Professional Chefs, Restaurateurs, Line Cooks, Street Vendors, and Purveyors Talk about What They Do and Why They Do It. New York: G.P. Putnam's Sons, 2016. Print.